2pcs Super Smooth Titanium Alloy Thermal Heat Break Throat TC4 Thermal Barrel for V6 Kraken/Chimera/Cyclops Hotend 3D Printer

I put this heat break in so I could print PETG. I could have probably gotten away with using the stock setup or upgrading to Capricorn tubing but I was still concerned about the health implications of heating up ptfe. I looked around at the E3D V6 and the Micro Swiss upgrades but I did not want to modify my printer to accept the E3D hot end and the Micro Swiss hot end was quite steep in the pricing department although it is convenient as it is a direct replacement. I looked at different all metal hot ends available and it seemed that the heat break was the differentiating factor between a normal hot end and an all metal hot end. I decided to see if I could find an all metal heat break for the stock hot end. I stumbled upon this item but I was concerned that the hole drilled where the filament goes through wouldn't be completely smooth. When I received the item I was very impressed by the quality of the machining. The outer surfaces were very smooth and the threads were very well formed without any weird galling issues. The drilled hole in the middle was extremely smooth without any imperfections that I could see. The bowden tube fits in very nicely into the top of the heat break and the filament fits nicely through the rest of the heat break. I have been using this heat break for the past few days to print PETG and it has not clogged once. I have used retraction settings between 2mm and 7mm and have not had any issues. I have not tried to print PLA yet so I cannot speak as to whether or not it will get clogged in the heat break.

So... what did I intendI wanted to have an all metal hot end at the lowest possible cost and effort.I used this on an ENDER 3 MAX to replace the existing hotends heatbreak. Took about 8 minutes...including heat tightening and such.. also swapped out to a K type thermistor just to be safe now feel safe printing to 260*C to get beyond this temp you must update the firmware in marlin for the 3d printer...Should solve many folks basic issues.Am I happy with it ... yes.Is it the best bang for the buck in my opinion, also yes nothing else required changing...also I have noted the hot end heater is on for a shorter percentage of time.... I attribute this to better heatbreak material aka titanium and a good design.

I got tired of jamming because my Capricorn tubing was getting ate up by the metal jaws in the fittings allowing it to back off creating the dreaded gap. I looked at all metal hotends. I was ready to print the Creality Hotend fix on Thingiverse.I then stumbled onto this little beauty. This turns the original into an all metal hotend. No issues with the bore and the outside is super smooth. I took a completely different approach other than oiling. I used Teflon spray.I started printing with PETG. I completed several short prints. No issues and prints looked as good as normal. Next i setup an overnight print with PETG. I wanted the Teflon baked on and into the Titanium.The following morning i switched to PLA, reduced retraction to 3mm and set it equal to my print speed. I then setup the infill wipe at 2 mm.Before writing this review i have been printing now for almost two weeks. I have been swapping fillament types, colors, marble and wood. I have had no issues with jamming or extrusion issues.One key to swapping from the original to the all metal hotend. You will either need to bump your temp up or do a PID tuning. If you choose to just bump the temp. I suggest redoing your temp towers to find the new best temp to print at with the all metal hotend. It does make a difference.

Replaced the PFTE lined heatbreak in my Sidewinder X1 with this all metal heatbreak. From the photo you can see the barrel is about 2mm longer than the replaced heatbreak. This will result in your nozzle projecting further down towards the heat bed. Happily this is not a problem as the bed has enough adjustment to compensate.The interior of my all metal heat breaks looked well polished, so didn't have to polish them myselfEdit:Have found with this new all metal heatbreak I can no longer reliably print PLA filament on the Sidewinder X1 and am therefore reverting back to the PFTE heatbreak. I suspect this is why Sidewinder X1 didn't come with an all metal heat break in the first place.

Ok, so...this was my first major work with my hotend. I have a stock Ender 3 (at least the hotend up to this point). The reviews of this jamming with PLA are true, but I think there's more to it than that. You're going to need to work to get this working with your printer. First issue with these is yeah...they're not super smooth. I grabbed a pipe cleaner and some liquid barkeeper's friend and scrubbed out the bore. Next...find some guides on clearing jams/hotend fixes on youtube. You'll get some good tips on rebuilding your hotend and making sure it's good and tight. Also, there's a bevel inside where the PTFE tube goes. You might want to sand a bit of a bevel on your PTFE tube to get it to mate up better. These aren't perfect...but IF you get it tightened up and are willing to fiddle with it they can be made to work. IMHO...I probably should have just bought the knockoff microswiss.

Bought this to use in my Sidewinder X2. It's a little longer than the stock heat break which prevents the touch sensor from engaging properly. It caused the nozzle to ram straight into my bed. There's no way to adjust the height of the touch sensor on the X2, so do not use this.

Bought this to try and convert my stock hot end into an all metal one by swapping the heat break with this one. It was a major success! I'm able to print ABS to my heart's contemt and there's no apparent heat creep and not a single scratch on the ptfe tube (figuratively speaking, I'm refering to the heat degradation normally asociated with such temperatures of printing). My only concern so far is a small chamfer in the side that mates with the nozzle, but so far haven't had any clogs related to that. Overall, great value for the money and I would recommend for anyone planning on doing this mod.